Enjoying Cuba

Maria la Gorda 

From Bahia Honda I continue sailing west, staying a couple of miles outside the reef and the Archipielago de los Colorados. The winds are out of the north, 20 to 30 knots. With the consequent high seas, I am reluctant to breach the reef to seek shelter. So I continue toward the western tip of Cuba, round Cabo San Antonio and head for the dive resort at Maria la Gorda on Cuba's south coast, a 32 hour passage. 


The resort at Maria la Gorda is so remote that the only people here are tourists who have driven a long distance just to have the experience of diving in the pristine waters of the Bahia de Corrientes. The Cubans who work here come from all over Western Cuba. They work for 20 days, then have ten days off, to return to their homes if they so choose. 

A Diver Diving Instruction

I tie up on one of three buoys a hundred yards or so off shore. Here and in many other resort harbors in Cuba, anchoring is not allowed in an effort to protect the coral. The old concrete pier has no usable cleats by which to safely secure a boat! 

Even though remote, I am met by a full cadre of officials to clear me in. Also, I am greeted with curiosity by Cubans and tourists alike every time I go ashore. During my stay here, I am the only visiting cruiser. I enjoy the snorkeling and diving here. The coral is beautiful. The water is warm and clear. But I am anxious to move on. Again, I am socked in by adverse weather. I while away the time snorkeling bicycling and working on the boat. 

One afternoon I look out from the cockpit where I am working and notice that my inflatable dinghy is floating away. As I am wearing only cutoffs, without hesitation I dive into the water to chase down the dinghy. The brisk wind is moving the dinghy along at least as fast as I am swimming so I am content on keeping up in order to retrieve the dinghy from the reef toward which it is headed. Fortunately, the dive boat Captain has been watching the scene unfold. He comes out to rescue first me and then the dinghy just before it lands on the reef. During my swim, I lose everything in my pockets, including the on/off switch for the dinghy motor. Since I can not start the outboard, the Captain takes us both back to the Sirius II

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