Enjoying Cuba

Bahia Naranjo

My next two passages along the eastern tip of Cuba are the easiest so far. The winds are 10 - 15 knots and the water is still deep, allowing me to stay close in to shore. I can see more and there is more to see. 

About midnight on December 16th I am surprised by a clear, distinct American voice on the VHS radio with a familiar message. 

"Attention all vessels. This is the US Coast Guard cutter Mohawk. This is the US Coast Guard Cutter Mohawk. We are departing the US navy base at Guantanamo at 0100 hours. Any interested traffic should contact us on Channel 16, 14, or 12. " 

As I am approaching the American Base at Guantanamo, and as the Mohawk is based out of Key West, I respond to her radio call. This surprises the radio operator somewhat, but we switch to Channel 22A and chat briefly. I wish the crew Merry Christmas and remind them that tax season is approaching (I've prepared tax returns for some of them in the past) . 

On this two-day passage, I pass Punta Maisi, the eastern tip of Cuba. The winds shift from east to north, giving the Sirius II a broad reach as we slowly come about to a westerly direction. A day later I sail into Bahia de Naranjo in the province of Holguin. 

The next day I dinghy over to the Hotel Sol Rio del Mares to make arrangements to go to the city of Holguin to visit my pen pal Marianne and her family. I met Marianne quite by accident at the Hotel Nacional in Havana two years ago when I had sailed to Varadero as part of a regatta from Key West. At that time she had just started her study of English and welcomed the opportunity to correspond with an American. We exchanged a few letters in the interim and now I am looking forward to seeing her again and meeting her family. 

At the hotel I arrange for a ride on the Transfer Bus, the bus that transports the tourists, mainly European, from the resort area to the airport near Holguin. Although not part of the deal, the driver searches the narrow side streets of Pueblo Nuevo Holguin looking for the address, another example of how so many Cubans went out of their way to help me. He deposits me at Marianne's door step. 

Marianne is ecstatic. She is so surprised, shocked, or shy that she avoids looking at me or talking with me for several minutes. Fortunately, other members of her household are not so reticent. Luis, Marianne's cousin Esther's husband, speaks English well and is anxious to strike up a dialog.

Marianne

I had written Marianne from Marina Hemingway that I was planning to visit sometime toward the end of my cruise. It has been my experience that mail takes anywhere from one to three months between the United States and Cuba. Hopefully, mail service within Cuba is faster. I now learn that Marianne did receive my letter and wrote a response, which I have not received to this day.

As is becoming of a guest, I give Marianne a present for inviting me into her home: A string of Christmas lights. The family is so excited with this "gift" that they immediately string the lights around the living room. The only electrical outlet available is in use by the color television, which they unplug in order to use the lights. These lights complement the Christmas decorations that already adorn the second floor apartment. This home reflects much more care and financial security than the previous homes that I have visited. The kitchen, dining room and living room make up one large room. The kitchen appliances, the dinette table and the living room furniture are all well maintained. The TV set looks new. The interior walls are decorated with pictures, paintings and a US calendar. Except for the flushing ring on top of the toilet bowl, the bathroom is typical American. 

The next few days are truly memorable. My hosts are anxious to show me their city. We go on a tour of the city in a horse drawn carriage. We eat in Cuban restaurants. They talk with pride about their country. They share with me in confidence their misgivings about the present political regime. Several times. 

Holguin

On my final day with my new friends, Marianne, who has opened up more each day, confides with me. For Cubans, getting government permission to emigrate is easier if you are married. She wants so much to emigrate to the United States that she seeks marriage with anyone, Cuban or foreigner, that will advance this cause. Marianne, in her early twenties is young enough to be my daughter. Sensing what is coming, I stop her before she goes any further. I've already had three proposals of marriage since arriving in Cuba. It would be nice if I were that appealing, but I know better. I tell her that I am still in recovery from a very sad divorce and could not possibly consider another marriage, no matter how it might benefit her or both of us. She drops the subject, but I can see the disappointment in her eyes. 
With heavy heart I leave these fine folks in Holguin. I never did meet Marianne's parents, as they were on the family farm out in the province of Holguin. The grandmother, who lives in the first floor of the two story house, came out only briefly to visit. The younger sister, as would be expected of a teenager, chooses to spend time with friends her own age. 

Back on the Sirius II, the next morning I am informed by VHF radio that the food supplies previously ordered are now in. I grab some pesos and dinghy in. Upon arriving at the dock I learn that the fuel which I had also ordered has arrived. Now I need to bring the Sirius II, and dollars, to the dock. The Port Officer, a charming, lovely lady, scampers into the dinghy to help me weigh anchor and bring in the big boat. 

Maybe it is the excitement of having an attractive lady aboard, although other Cuban Officials have been female and not unattractive. Whatever the reason, the dinghy is not secured properly and drifts away. Remembering my last attempt at rescue and how I had lost everything in my pockets, I strip off my shorts and dive into the water. History repeats itself. It soon becomes apparent that the wind is pushing the dinghy faster than I can swim. I remain content to catch up with it when it lands on the distant shore, as indicated on the previous map. As before, a Cuban boat comes by, this time a supply boat en route to the aquarium in the middle of the bay, and rescues first me then the dinghy. 


However, this time there are significant differences. Now there is a lady waiting for me on board whom I had hoped to impress with my seamanship and general persona. And I am stark naked! Do you think any help from the supply boat crew is forthcoming? Of course not. They are probably still laughing. I am left to my own bag of tricks. And it is bare. 

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