Onward to Isla de la Juventud

Onward to Isla de la Juventud

01 Dec 2002,08:52:25,23º 05.035' N,082º 30.117' W,000.0,0.0. Barometer 30.06.

The plan was to leave at 8:00 a.m. sharp, but it was closer to 10:00 a.m. before I actually left the Coast Guard dock at Marina Hemingway. Tom, on a sailboat from Cross Key (near Marathon), accompanied me to the dock to help out and then rode his bike about a mile back to the slip area where his boat is and mine was. He is one of the many who has a steady Cuban girlfriend waiting for him when he comes to Cuba. And she is the main reason he comes to Cuba.

Motor sailed to Bahia Honda, about 40 nautical miles, arriving about 5:00 p.m. Winds were light out of the WNW. It goes without saying, I am going west. Tried fishing, but there were no signs of any fish. Had to clean, oil and grease both fishing reels to get them to work. It's been over a year.

Bahia Honda is a pocket bay, which means that it has a narrow entrance, but opens up to a large bay inside. The Guarda station is just inside, where I am now anchored in eight feet of water next to an old Cuban fishing boat. It's only a two-foot tide, so I should be ok. The Guarda came out in a leaky rowboat to check me in: Same as three years ago.

The Breaks

The broom traverse line broke. This is the line that slides along the track in the cockpit to control the boom. Broke right in the middle of course. Since it goes through pullies, I can't splice it or knot it. Fortunately, I have on board a long line, a 100' sheet for the spinnaker, that will work. I surely won't be using the spinnaker on this trip. It's smaller in diameter, and, as I found out, will not activate the ratchet in the fiddle block to lock the line in place. This means an additional, quick knot every time I adjust the main sail. I was able to use an old block and tackle that came with the boat to temporarily secure the boom while I switched lines. Now you know why I don't throw anything away.

02 Dec 2002,08:08:17,22º 58.284' N,083º 09.648' W,298.2,0.3. Barometer 30.07 and holding.

Two members of the Guarda came out right when they said they would, took their shoes off to board the Sirius II, checked me out without inspecting the entire boat again, and I was underway by 8:30.

Initial winds out of the N at 15 knots, with 5 - 7' seas. Good sailing. By 11:00 the winds and seas had become confused. Motored the afternoon. Winds steadied around 5:00 p.m. and sailed until about midnight. A beautiful night; stars are bright. A few shooting stars. And cold. I am wearing my last long sleeve shirt. Where have they all gone?

03 Dec 2002,07:02:45,22º 11.908' N,084º 50.385' W,223.1,3.4. Barometer 30.06. Been sailing since the crack of dawn. Winds more easterly now. Sailed until rounded Cabo San Antonio, the western most tip of Cuba, and had to either head for Mexico or start the engine to motor directly into a 15 knot wind. Elected to motor to Maria la Gorda for the night, arriving just before sunset, to hope that the winds will be more favorable tomorrow. Went directly into the dock and waited for the authorities. Couldn't find my visa?????? Strange. Very strange. If I don't find it before I leave, will have to pay for another.

04 Dec 2002,15:24:16,00º 00.000' N,000º 00.000' W,000.0,0.0. Barometer at mid day was 29.95. It's falling. I'm not sure what this means for my trip to Marina Signuea tonight and tomorrow. I remember the last time I left here and had to return due to strong easterlies out in the Caribbean. Twice. Kept busy today on boat things. Discovered that by adding the solar amp guage I shorted the charge into the battery. Wondered why the house batteries were so low this a.m. Disconnected the ampmeter. Found another rope in the hold that was more appropriate for the boom traverse, so changed it. Added one jerry can of diesel. Now waiting to see what the weather does in the next hour or two.

04 Dec 2002,17:28:15,21º 49.033' N,084º 30.334' W,257.3,3.7. Checked out of Maria la Gorda. Found out what happened to my visa. Emigracion at Marina Hemingway kept it, thinking I was returning to the US!!!!!! Had to buy a new one here, $15.

Of course, the sail south to Cabo Corrientes was perfect. But as I approached the cape, those dastardly easterlies again. Winds 18 - 20 knots. Waves I don't know. It was dark. It was uncomfortable. Forward speed dropped to 2 knots, but gradually increased to 5 knots about midnight. The winds never quit, but the seas flattened out somewhat. Other than being uncomfortable, it was OK. During this entire leg, over 15 hours, I saw not another vessel. Not one sign of human life. Just me and the Sirius II. The first sign of civilization that I did see was the hulk of a grounded freighter in the reef that surrounds La Isla de la Juventud.

05 Dec 2002,06:49:35,21º 39.757' N,083º 31.969' W,091.7,5.4. Barometer 29.98. Again I watch the depth sounder go from hundreds of feet to 20 feet in a matter of moments. But this time the apprehension was absent. I guess I know what I am doing now. And it was daylight. Three years ago this pass was negotiated in the dark.

05 Dec 2002,13:51:42,21º 37.086' N,082º 58.830' W,342.5,0.0. Arrive Marina Siguanea o/a 12:30. Three people greet me dockside. Again I am amazed at what happens on the dock as a boat is coming in for dockage. In this instance, one person reaches out to secure a line. The other two stand around and watch while the Sirius II misses a buoy and grinds into the concrete dock.

As I have revisited places in Cuba over the years, I have seen improvements in the accommodations and infrastructure. Not here. It is worse. There is no electrical hookup that is safe. Water connections are all the wrong size, when the water is available that is. I won't be here long. That is, if I can get out. More shoaling has occurred since my last visit. My depth sounder was showing less than five feet of water several times as I traversed the channel. I am surprised that I didn't hit bottom as I came in, as the Sirius II draws 5.5' of water.

The Complexity of Language

07 Dec 2002,17:02:51,00º 00.000' N,000º 00.000' W,000.0,0.0. Much has happened since I last added to this log. I wanted to pay a visit to Dalia, Migdalia's sister, who lives nearby. No telephone, of course. Before setting out on this adventure, I verify with several of the workers here where Argenia Libre is located. The conversation went something like this:

"Por favor, esta este pueblo cerca de acqui" (as I hold up my note book with the name 'Argenia Libre' clearly spelled out, in Dalia's writing, not mine)?

"Si. No lejos. Esta 10 kilometers, mas or menos."

"Es posible para mi voy alla en bicicleta?"

"Clara! Argenia Libre esta 45 minutos solamente desde acqui en bicicleta."

"Es el pueblo facil a encontrar? Esta en el camino?"

"Si. Va a Hotel Colony y mantener a la derecho. Hay solamente un camino a Gerona."

There it is. Pretty straight forward. Asked and answered. I thought I asked if they knew the location of the town Argenia Liebe. Was it far from here? Is it easy to find, on the main road? How far and can I get there on my bicycle? I heard back that it is only 10 kilometers (six miles) away, about 45 minutes on my bike and it is on the main road, the only road between here and Gerona.

So, off I go, loaded down with clothes and other gifts donated by friends in Key West. I stop first at Hotel Colony, about a mile down the road, the only road, remember, to tend to other matters. Then, onward. I'm noting the flora and the fauna, observing some residual damage from the two hurricanes that hit this island the past season, and realize that I'm getting a little tired. An hour goes by and finally a sign--to La Victoria. A sign pointing back the way I have just come tells me that it is 15 kilometers to Hotel Colony. Oops.

I go to La Victoria. I ask several locals about Argenia Libre. I get different answers from each person, but in retrospect, they were all saying the same thing. I need to go back the way I came a certain distance, then take a right turn for a certain distance. The first person had me going back one block to the next street, take a right and go straight for four kilometers. The only problem was that this street took me into a housing area and it dead ended after four blocks. The next person had me going back the way I came to the hill and then take a right for 7 kilometers. I did and this appeared to be a large farm, maybe a holdover from the days of communal farms. Finally, I figure it out. I need to go back to the high hill, turn right for four kilometers (back the way I came), to the turnoff for Argenia Libre, which was another three kilometers off the main road. I remembered seeing the road on the way out, but there was no sign or other indication that a town was at the end of this road.

When I finally got to Dalia's house, the neighbor informs me that she was in Gerona, visiting family! Oh well, such is life. Anyway, it was an adventure. Which is life. I tell the neighbor who I am, ask directions for the closest tienda, as I need a cervesa before I had back. While there, who do you think shows up? Dalia. The neighbor had her time table off by a day. I might not be able to communicate with the marina staff, but I sure was able to communicate with the neighbor. Dalia wanted me to come back in the evening, at which time Migdalia would be here. I did, and she did, and a good time was had by all. Cubans sure like their rum!

The background for this epistle has been the CD's of Judy Collins.

08 Dec 2002,07:54:25,21º 37.080' N,082º 58.824' W,000.0,0.0. Barometer 30.06. Sunny and clear. No wind (which means mucho no-se-ums). Actual departure time was closer to 0900. Dockmaster had me wait until he called ahead to ensure that there was space available at Neuva Gerona. There was. Did some fishing again. Had one on, caught one, but threw it back. It was about a two pound frigate mackeral. My book says this fish is not very good eating. For my cusine, I want only the best.

08 Dec 2002,17:23:15,21º 53.280' N,082º 48.050' W,244.6,0.0. Arrive in Genora and am now secured to the commercial dock, as secure as one can be at a dock build for larger, commercial boats. My observation for Marina Seguanea holds true for here; whereas I see improvements throughout Cuba in the marina space available, none here. It might be worse, because three years ago I was at least able to hook up to electricity.

[Logging Started 10 Dec 2002, 19:47:23]. I am making this entry because I have made a decision. When I get the right weather window, my next destination is the Cayman Islands. Here's the story.

Yesterday, I first went in to the city center to locate the post office. More Christmas Cards. Then to Migdalia's casa. She had told me in Argenia Libre that she was no longer part of the dancing troup: Too old. Thus, I am sure she will be home.

I meet several new faces, as she forewarned me. First, I meet her new baby! Seven months old. Cute boy, fair skin whereas Midgalia is dark skin. Then, I meet Carmen, who is from the Cayman Islands. She also has a son, eight months old, and she has been living with the family for several weeks, waiting to return to the Cayman Islands. Waiting for what, was my first question.

Apparently, she was here, in La Isla, visiting relatives. When it came time for her to go home, the Cuban airlines said she was too pregnant. She couldn't fly. She would have to wait until after the child was born. Which she did. But now the Cubans want mucho dinero to process a passport for this Cuban citizen to go to the Cayman Islands. And the relatives don't want her living with them any more. The father of the child (she isn't married, as is the current fashion), home in The Caymans, refuses to send money. So, here she is. Migdalia's family took her in. She talks to me about the Cayman Islands. I plot a course and realize the main island is only about 140 miles from here, an overnighter. The Cayman Islands really aren't close to anything else, so this may be my only real opportunity to visit the Caymans. So, I begin to plan.

12 Dec 2002,08:21:05,21º 53.221' N,082º 48.060' W,000.0,0.0. I told the officials here that I wanted to leave at 08:00, but I overslept~~~~. Just as well, because by the time I WAS ready, they were just arriving on the scene. Found out that I can't clear out of Cuba here or at Marina Siguanea, so I have to go east to Cayo Largo. Easterlies, again. Short, square waves over shallow water.

12 Dec 2002,18:11:43,21º 43.580' N,082º 05.074' W,182.8,0.2. Dropped the hook on the leeward side of a lonely, uninhabited island called Cayo Tablones. Decided to stop here as I did not want to negociate the next passage in the dark. Took three tries before the anchor held. I am using the inside depth sounder to track any movement, in case the anchor drags. Tonight I had a delicious meal thoroughly Cuban. Eggs and cucumbers from Hotel Colony, a type of sweet potato from Migdalia's garden and the Cuban version of wieners from the local dollar store. Oops, I did use some garlic that I brought with me. Even the cooking oil is either Cuban or Dominican Republic. Of course the rum and the jugo de mango are Cuban.

13 Dec 2002,06:06:54,00º 00.000' N,000º 00.000' W,000.0,0.0.Barometer 29.95. Down from three days ago. Waiting for daylight to lift anchor and head for the passage at Canal del Rosario. This needs to be done in daylight as there are sizeable reefs on both sides of the southern end. This must have been an OK anchorage as I woke to find a Cuban fishing boat about a 1/4 mile further inside. Maybe the holding ground is better there. Next time I will know!

13 Dec 2002,14:26:07,21º 37.355' N,081º 33.858' W,002.1,0.0. Arrived o/a 14:00, pretty much on schedule. This passage from Neuva Gerona to Cayo Largo is one of the most tense passages I have ever done. Much shallow water and at least three narrow channels. The last one is supposed to have two sets of markers, one set at each end. Three of them were lost during last year's hurricanes and have not been replaced. So, with one channel marker and a known compass course, I venture on. Of course, it is hard to reckon tidal drift. About midway through the 1/4 mile long channel I find myself in <7' of water. In my mind I hear the keel dragging on the reef. The channel itself is supposed to be about 18' deep. Fortunately, the water was crystal clear and I could clearly see the reef below and knew which way to turn. Otherwise. . . . . . It did scare the bejibies out of me. Then for the next three hours my course took me across some shoals of about 7 - 10'. So now you know what I do on my passages: Look at the chart, look at the water for shoaling, look at the depth sounder, check, double check, look again.

[Logging Started 14 Dec 2002, 07:30:40]. Barometer 29.96. No significant difference from yesterday at the same time, but the skies are cloudy with blustery winds out of the north. It rained off and on during the night. To go or not to go is the question. Pede, the Manager here, the one with the beautiful wife who also works here, advises me to wait until midday to decide. Later, the dockmaster comes over, as it begins to rain, and asks that I wait until tomorrow. I will, of course, but who knows what the weather will be tomorrow? Putter around on the boat most of the day. Cayo Largo is really being developed. New docks and slips. At least 1/2 dozen excursion boats and a few catamarans for charter. Not only do the electrical connections work, but the electricity comes at a full 115 volts. This is better than the City Marina at Garrison Bight.

15 Dec 2002,10:28:13,21º 36.500' N,081º 34.597' W,174.4,4.3. Barometer at 30" at noon. Under way for the Caymans at 11:00. The frente frio is dying, but the winds are still out of the north at about 15 knots. And cold. Damn cold. Before the night is over I will have on long pants, shirt and rain slick. Some residual swells up to 8'

Onward to the Grand Caymans

16 Dec 2002,07:05:18,19º 49.569' N,081º 32.081' W,166.3,6.9. Barometer 29.96. A very long and stressful night. Winds gusting in excess of 20 knots out of the north, but the swells, by daybreak up to 12', out of the NNE. The sails were flip flopping in all directions so finally I lowered them and just went with bare poles, with the motor at half speed for steerage. I scooted, between 6 - 7 knots, and the auto pilot was able to hold a course. But the course took me about three miles off my destination, and when I got to the Grand Caymans, it took me nearly two hours to cut across the swells into the wind for those three miles. Throughout the night I kept hearing sounds, as if the shaft was out of alignment, as if the motor mounts might be broken, as if the prop might be damaged. A long night. On top of that I was uncomfortable, unable to sit comfortably. Maybe too much salt water in my pants?

I make contact with the harbor authorities. They tell me I can't enter the main harbor-made unsafe by the storm. They direct me around to a "sheltered" bay on the south, leeward side.

16 Dec 2002,14:33:18,19º 16.216' N,081º 19.008' W,265.0,0.3. Here at Spot Bay on the south side of the island with my anchor set. Later in the p.m. customs called and informed me the wind had diminished sufficiently if I wanted to round the corner and check in. As it was getting late, I asked if tomorrow was OK. It was, but I should have moved. It was a rolly night. I continue to have pain when I sit or lie down.

17 Dec 2002,08:00:04,19º 16.229' N,081º 19.014' W,163.0,0.4. Barometer 30". Moving over to the commercial pier to check in with Coast Guard and Customs. Actually, immigration came first, followed by customs, who wanted my speargun until I leave, and finally the sprayman, who collected $31.25 to spray the boat for unwanted bugs and insects. Completed about noon and I moved about 300 meters and tied off on a buoy. Was soon welcomed by the skipper of the Elene, a Swedish boat, the only other cruiser in the harbor. Later went in to town, and saw Christmas decorations for the first time this season. I got some $, of which I was in a short supply, and a Cayman courtesy flag--for 34 $US!!!!! This is about twice the cost in expensive Key West. Welcome to the Grand Caymans. Then, a visit to the local supermarket. And it was. Just like Winn Dixie, to include many American products. Prices about 15% higher. I looked. I tasted the free samples. It was wonderful.

[Logging Started 18 Dec 2002, 08:29:39] Barometer 30.01. Up a little from yesterday, but we have had a norther blowing for the last two hours, since before sunup. Again, no sleep, can't lie down nor sit comfortably. Noisy industrial harbor. Rolly seas. I wanted to pull up the dingy, but swells too threatening. At least I got another line on it and on the mooring I was tied to. All cruise ships were first diverted to Spot Bay on the south, then cancelled. I wanted to move to Spot Bay as well, but was afraid of losing or sinking the dinghy. So, I am just waiting it out. A slight lull right now, thus am able to make this posting. About 11:00 the wind has shifted to the east and the seas have relaxed a little. I'm in a lot of pain, for the third day running, so radio for information about a local clinic. They want to send an ambulance, but I assure them that I was in pain, not an invalid. I've been passing blood with bowel movements. At the clinic I get some bad news, which was actually good news. I was thinking prostate or colon cancer only to learn that I have a bad case of hemorrhoids. How can hemorrhoids be so painful? The medication prescribed made me a weakling the rest of the day and the next.

[Logging Started 19 Dec 2002, 07:30:24]. Barometer 29.95. The Cruise ships have returned. Already there are three in number and later a fourth. The Swedish couple left for Isla Mujeres, Mexico early this a.m. I took their buoy, to get a little more distance from the 24 hour construction noise from the dock. Went to shore to refuel my jerry cans. Fuel is sold by the imperial gallon here. It appears to be cheaper here than Cuba. Then, took to the bike to check out the five miles of beaches. Enjoyed the beaches; the bicycle ride was a little painful.

[Logging Started 20 Dec 2002, 10:06:47]. Barometer 30". The trimaran Escape 3 arrived this a.m., becoming the second cruising vessel in the harbor. She was pulling into Cayo Largo as I was departing. Rode the minibus out to the Turtle Farm and Hell. Took a taxi back, as the ticket taker at the turtle farm said, this is Friday and everyone is cashing his payroll checks, including the bus drivers, apparently.

[Logging Started 21 Dec 2002, 11:07:03]. Barometer no change. Weather predicted winds ENE, up to 20 knots this p.m., diminishing at night; waves 3-5'. Cleared and ready to go. No additional exit charges. Gregg and Cherie on Scirocco, from San Francisco arrived during the night and I conversed briefly before getting under way. They had been underway for five days from Panama. She has a web site which I must see: www.wherescherie.com.

22 Dec 2002,06:23:34,20º 57.393' N,081º 28.923' W,012.2,5.5 Barometer 30.03. Well, I think the weather person needs to check his digits. The wind was E of N, not N of E. The waves were closer to 13 - 15' and N of E, similar to when I arrived. Again, this made sailing difficult and finally at dusk I ran with the engine and the mainsail double reefed. Fast, though, averaging six knots, and maintained that today with just a little jib and still two reefs in the main. On this entire trip I have seldom had the main fully extended.

On Killing the Goose that Lays the Golden Egg

22 Dec 2002,14:39:29,21º 37.355' N,081º 33.857' W,021.0,0.0. Arrived and nearly checked in at Cayo Largo. Am not happy. First, the medico comes aboard and, after asking me a bunch of senseless questions about my health, checks my blood pressure, announces me fit and says $25 please. Well, that opened up a very prolonged dialog in which I basically took the position, "why are you gouging the cruisers like this?" And then another $10 here, $15 there and $20 for arriving on Sunday. I didn't even know it was Sunday!!! Even if it is Sunday. all these officials were already here, in their various uniforms, waiting for me to dock. It's not like that had to be called from their homes..........I have handed out $70 and haven't even stepped off the boat!!!!!! (Total fees for my stay in the Grand Caymans was $31.25. Which I think is reasonable.) And I haven't even cleared out of Cuba yet. Quit bitching Steve

[Logging Started 23 Dec 2002, 15:19:25]. Did a bucket full of laundry today. Running out of underwear. Did the tourist thing this p.m. Did the beaches and went to Hotel Sol to access the internet. Able to send out, but couldn't open my e-mail. I've coordinated by departure for 08:00 tomorrow, just now realizing my arrival at Isla de la Juventud will probably be Christmas Day. Wonder what the fees will be there.

[Logging Started 24 Dec 2002, 08:04:18]. Barometer 29.96. Down a little. Preparing to depart Cayo Largo for Isla de la Juventud. Was able to retrieve my address book that for which I had been looking high and low. Left it here. Now I can finish my Christmas mailing!!!!!! Waiting for the officials. Only one came and I was underway by 09:00. Heading west, expecting the prevailing easterlies to push me along fast. But the winds are out of the south?????? Waves 2 - 3' in the Bay, but 5 - 7' in the Caribbean, where I am about noon.

24 Dec 2002,18:37:05,21º 32.740' N,082º 10.677' W,240.9,0.3. Decide to go inside the reef at Canalizo Aguardiente, so that I can anchor and get some sleep. Santa won't visit if I stay awake all night sailing. But Santa came early, in the form of a 5 lb King Mackeral. I had several strikes during the p.m., but couldn't land any. Finally determined that I must be using too small of a hook. I have only one lure with a larger hook. Sure enough, within 15 minutes I have another one on and am able to land it. This will be a nice Christmas gift for my family in Neuva Gerona. But because I had to slow the boat down for several minutes, darkness set in before I was able to negotiate Canalizo Aguardiente. Am now anchored about four miles away at Cayo Avalos. Must have been in a hurry to get out of Cayo Largo. Forgot to tie down a fender. It's gone. Forgot to secure the anchor. Fortunately, it's OK.

Christmas Day

[Logging Started 25 Dec 2002, 07:13:27]. Merry Christmas, Steve. Barometer, no change. Winds now out of the west???????A little late getting underway. No one here except me, so I must be at fault. Canalizo Aguardiente only about one hour away. Here also some of the markers are missing. Went aground in the entrance. Several times. Finally ended up making my own channel through the silt. Took over an hour to go 1/4 mile. In the Golfo de Batabano, where I now am, in about 15 - 19 feet of water, the seas are flat calm. Before I could get bored, however, the wind and rain descend upon me. Now I understand the unusual south and west winds. The forerunners of a norther, a frente frio. It totally slipped past me as each direction was for a full day. And prior to leaving Cayo Largo I had checked with the weather channel and it had predicted out of Havana easterlies for the next four days. Of course, I'm not in Havana. Anyway, I motor the entire distance as I noticed last evening that there is a small rip in the main sail. I really don't want to aggravate it.

25 Dec 2002,16:57:55,21º 53.281' N,082º 48.052' W,318.6,0.0. Arrived approximately 45 minutes ago. Very easy check in. I think they are getting use to me. This time I was met by people who were willing to help me tie up. Secured the boat, showered and went to visit Migdalia's family. A Regular day for the Cubanos. Had a delicious meal with the extended family. Migdalia tried to explain to me the emigration process for Cubans. First, you have to have a passport. That process takes up to three months and costs about $70 US, including photo. Then you are eligible to apply for immigration. At that time the government takes the position that you must not like us so your food allowance is cut off. Apparently, each family, regardless of financial need, is allowed so much food either for free or at subsidized prices for each member of the family. When Migdalia makes this official application, her extended family's food ration will be reduced by one unit. Now the costs begin to mount. The applicant has to pay for a police report, a marital status report, a health report, and other reports that I didn't really understand. I quit counting at about $400 US, which isn't really that much, but it is more than the average Cuban makes in a year. Finally, you have to have the approval of the country to which you want to emigrate and the price of an airline ticket there.

[Logging Started 26 Dec 2002, 07:58:32]. Barometer 30.1. Rising. Weather should be improving, but at this time winds still variable out of the N, cldy and cool. Boxing Day, another regular day here. And it is a regular day for me. I jerry can fresh water over to the boat. I remove the head sail with the idea I can get it mended here. A neighbor of Migdalia's undertakes the task. I arrange for a fuel delivery. Both chores completed by late p.m. The family invites me to a fiesta the next day.

[Logging Started 27 Dec 2002, 08:49:14]. Barometer at 30.15 and appears to be rising. Bodes well for a Saturday departure. Winds NNE. Bend the sail. Went to Migdalia's to see what this "fiesta" was all about. It turns out that she has a sister and another relative living in a small rural town NW of Gerona. She hires a friend with a 1950 chevy station wagon who takes a carload of people out to spend the afternoon dancing, eating sweets and drinking Coca Cola.

[Logging Started 28 Dec 2002, 08:40:53]. Baramoter 30.2. High. Winds NNE and breezy. cldy. Underway on schedule. The wind and waves are vicious at the mouth of the river. I go below to make sure the head hatch is closed and notice a lot of water near the v-berth. The Sirius II takes a big wave head on and water pours in through the forward hatch.

29 Dec 2002,07:30:43,21º 44.402' N,084º 02.568' W,266.9,6.6. Barometer 30.22. Wind and waves continued through the night. Very cold. Even had shoes on.

29 Dec 2002,13:16:21,21º 49.250' N,084º 29.899' W,147.5,0.6. Just arrived Maria la Gorda. Tied off on a buoy in pristine clear water to await room at the dock or whatever the officials want me to do. They actually came out to me! One of the charter boats brought two officials out to check me in. Checked the nav light. Appears to be no problem. Maybe I just can't see at night.

[Logging Started 30 Dec 2002, 07:30:31]. Barometer 30.11. Little or no change. Here, there is a light N breeze. Have to wait for two dive boats before I can come in to the dock to check out. Finally cleared at 10:00. (At the dock there is a brand new stainless steel dock cleat!) Ideal sailing conditions, especially for Cuba. Heading west across the Bahia Corrientes and the winds are out of the NE at 10 - 15 knots, moving the boat at 4.5 - 5 knots. So, for the first two - three hours of this 50-hour leg, it looks great, although with the winds being so much astern, the foresail flops a little. Of course by nightfall the nasty wind had returned.

31 Dec 2002,07:52:56,22º 47.847' N,084º 12.516' W,049.7,6.1. Barometer 29.97. During the night I notice that the bilge was pumping every 2 - 3 minutes. This is not normal. I didn't really noticed any excesiver water in the midship bilge, which feeds into the aft bilge. Upon further investigation I detected an excessive amount of drip from the propeller shaft. So, at first light, I shut the engine down, leave the boat under control of the foresail and autopilot, take my tools and WD-40 and crawl into the engine room over the top of the batteries. A half hour later everything appears to be ok, although it is hard to test with the boat moving. About noon I reach my last waypoint before I make a minor turn and went for 208 nm at 54 degrees until I arrive at Key West. If I encounter bad weather within a couple of hours, I still have time to return to Cuba before dark to find a comfortable reef anchorage. I go.

01 Jan 2003,07:04:07,24º 15.402' N,082º 16.613' W,047.5,5.8. Barometer 29.91. A vicious night. Wind, waves and rain. I saw more frieghters and cruse liners tonight than all of my previous trip. Again, my navigation light is not working. Twice during the night I had to call on the VHF radio to make sure the big boats saw little ole Sirius II. I'm going to change the boat name to Sirius Sieve. Water everywhere. Everything that can leak does, starting with the new window I replaced before starting on this trip. Also, the 13' seas that were predicted materialized and water everywhere on top of the boat. I had both sides of the boat, both gunnels under water once at the same time. How can that be? In part because I was taking a chance. Even though the wind had increased and changed direction, I maintained the same course, directly toward Key West. Waves were hitting me directly abeam, in the dark which means that I could not see them coming and adjust course accordingly, and I took a direct hit. Probably the hardest hit of the trip. Once the Sirius II righted herself, I set a new course 45 degrees into the wind, which was away from Key West. But safer. Not before I lost another fender and my wash down bucket. This trip is getting expensive. After this front passed, I was able to set course again for Key West and headed for Sand Key. I have never approached Key West this way before. This means that I am no longer in the depths of the Atlantic Ocean and the waves will mellow out as the water shallows.

By mid afternoon, I am back at my slip in Garrison Bight. My neighbors came out to help me tie up and immediately invite me to a New Year's dinner in just a few hours. Oh, it is good to be home!

 

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